Wednesday, August 7, 2013

Kota Kinabalu - Sabah, Malaysia - on the island of Borneo


 I am thankful that my Philippines visa has required me to leave the country every 59 days - it has forced me to see more of Southeast Asia than I would have otherwise. 

One place I never would have ventured to is Kota Kinabalu or “KK” – the cheapest, closest flight to another country from the Philippines. 

 Actually the island of Borneo is closer to Palawan than Manila (6 hours versus 24 hours by boat). 
The Philippines and the province of Sabah, Malaysia share the Sulu Sea. So proximate are the land masses that in February the Sultan in Mindanao PH claimed Sabah as his and sent armed soldiers – rather reminiscent of Ireland – age-old conflicts over“ownership of the land.” Malaysia seems well-organized and strong enough to prevent this Mouse that Roared potential. I hope so. 
 
Ecologically too – our flora and fauna is similar to that of Borneo – we are separated from the PH by the invisible Huxley's Line - you can see it as a dotted line - encircling Palawan and leaving the rest of the Philippines. 


 






A different invisible line separates the island of Borneo into three countries – KK lies in the province of Sabah, Malaysia – Bali in Indonesia and the third country is the sultanate of Brunei. 
 

KK is decades ahead of Palawan regarding infrastructure, organization, planning and self-reliance – this four day trip was a real eye-opener for me.  The taxi driver spoke excellent English and was knowledgeable about the city – we talked about KK’s electric (hydro-powered) and he pointed out places for me to hike, discussed the annual Dragon boat races, the Sunday market and the price of living in KK as higher than in the PH. 


The tourist center in KK



Whoa!!  Clean Public Bathrooms?!









My friend Simon, regional director of the Special Olympics Asia-Pacific, went farther – comparing the PH and Malaysia and the countries that colonized them:  Malaysia by the British and Philippines by the Spanish - the Spanish as patrons who taught the populace to be beholden and gain their money with an outstretched palm; to believe in siesta and manana and a heavenly afterlife.  I’ve heard this before and it feels so racist that I reject it – but whatever the reasons, Malaysians in KK seem a lot more together than the Pilipinos I know in similar sized towns.  And, odd to me, the Sulu Sea fisherpeople who came from the Philippines and settled in Sabah, are looked down upon as almost barbaric by the Sabah Malaysians - a very different culture.

Simon took me to dinner in what first appeared to be an aquarium (and I was delighted).   

Colorful fresh fish
 

Looking closer, prices were evident on each tank - and away from the marine life, tables were arranged - everything in the aquaria was dinner! 






  I did not have rockfish or horseshoe crab, but did have some delicious and spicy fish with fresh seaweed.



Clams


Enormous horseshoe crabs - um, no thank you














            





Simon also arranged for me to visit schools and a Sabah SPED facility.  And I learned a lot.  Sabah has 32 government-run SPED centers for a near 4 million population.  They partner with Special Olympics and use specific methodologies for teaching and disciplining. 

 The behavior of the 35 children with autism at the center I visited was amazing – self-motivated and interactive – very unusual.   

In contrast, Palawan has about 1 million population and one public school with one class for autism – about 12 children are in the class.  

There are only 2 teachers with SPED credentials on the island  of Palawan – and I am one of them!  (However, I did hear that a new school is bringing a credentialed SPED teacher, so there will be three now - only two in the classroom).   I asked the teachers in KK about SPED laws in Malaysia and they told me they are well known and also heavily enforced – another major difference.  Perhaps the most noticeable difference was the “can do” attitude of the Special Olympic community organizer and of the SPED center director – watching them plan an event was great – as I told them, it was Inspiring  and illustrated  the potential for the PH, and depressing because we have so far to go.

The “20 minute” walk to the Dragon Race semifinals took me well over an hour, but it was well worth it – cheering-on each rowing team (although just like watching Ashley’s college crew races at Lehigh, you have to pay attention because it’s over so quickly...but, as opposed to Ashley's heats, I was lucky to get plenty of pictures of this
ocean race)


Their coxswain and his drum - pretty heavy!










Cheering on Their Team!




 

And on Sunday, I hit the Gaya market before my noon flight – one of the more delightful markets I’ve attended – everything for sale from blue and yellow gouramis to 7 types of rice to papaya trees. Beautiful people, beautiful dress, beautiful clean public toilets – I’ll be back!
























PS – Already scheduled the next trip – a birthday celebration for my college roommate, Janet Herbruck, and me – May 2014 - to visit E. Sabah’s wildlife – Sandakan’s orangutans, pygmy elephants and bat cave.

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