Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Melodies and Dust


April 23rd – tomorrow is Easter Sunday, and it is HOT.  We are in the tainit (ta-een-it) months – the dry season, which has been Anglicized to “Summer.”    The rains stopped mid March here, and became progressively hotter; today I am sitting in front of my electric fan, sweating.  My fan is on from the time I wake up until…well, the next day, when I wake up – if I am home, the fan is on…but I am usually still sweating.   Needless to say, showers and laundry have increased – I usually shower 2-3 times a day now.

I long anticipated the summer, which they tell me will recede by my birthday, and torrential rains will resume in late May, with the real rainy season hitting in June and July.  Theoretically, these taper off in December – but 2011 is a La Nina year, and the rains continued into March.  In the past, scientists thought that the El Nino/La Nina cycle occurred about every 10-20 years…now they are saying 2-4 years.  Another rainy season like the last one and I will be fungal.  And, while I grapple with the concept of a 2 month ‘summer,’ I will welcome a little rain to force the dust from the air.

Palawan is a paradise compared to Manila – the air is usually sweet and light here and breathing is wonderful – something most of us never notice….here on Palawan, I’ve noticed just breathing!  However, we do have traffic that uses leaded gasoline with no ‘smog check’ or filter at all on vehicles – being stuck in traffic here probably takes days off one’s life with fumes from the open-air vehicles visible and the black exhaust pungent.  Most everyone holds handkerchiefs to their noses and eyes.

Couple that with the heavy dust of the summer months, or the practice of raking up trash and leaves into a pile and burning it all…and it is easy to see why so many people here have rather severe asthma.  Pretty ironic that the Peace Corps touts the fact that the Philippines is one of few countries that will accommodate several medical issues – asthma being one….the reason seems to be that asthma is so prevalent here….so, actually, they are sending you to a place you really shouldn’t be subjected to if you are predisposed to asthma!!    Although I’m rather dreading the rains, it will be a respiratory relief (until too much mold grows and then asthma will resurface – crazy).

And, as you sit in front of your electric fan in the evening, as the light fades, you can hear melodies…the overbearing roosters (contrary to stories, they doodle at any hour of the day they choose), the higher scaled birdsong of the tuwit tuwit, the tuko chirping in the ceiling, and my newlywed neighbor humming a song I don’t recognize as she works quietly, sweeping the dust off her front porch…as I cough briefly, and smile. 


Tuesday, April 5, 2011

Togas and Mortarboards - It's Pagkatapos (Graduation)

Here in the Philippines, it's the dry season - some call it summer.  On Palawan it lasts for 2-3 months; this year summer began in mid-March and I'm hoping that the rains won't start in earnest until the end of June...but they laugh and say that rain will return in mid May - wow.  I'm enjoying the dry while I can!

And, as in many countries, School's Out for Summer!

In my extended Ustares family here (or Ustaris - their father misspelled two of the eight siblings' surnames on their birth certificates), there were several graduations because here in the Philippines, there are graduations from preschool, from kindergarten, from grade school, from high school and from college. Often both parents take the day off in order to prepare their children for the ceremony, while colleges practice entrances and exits for weeks prior to the ceremony.

I was lucky to attend three separate graduations and see four people graduate from preschool, kindergarten, high school and college.

JoAnn wore a beautiful formal dress





On March 29th, the two little girls, JoAnn and Jane both graduated - JoAnn, now 5 years old, entered 2nd year preschool and Jane graduated into 1st grade...oh, she corrected me  "Grade 1."     

Jane wore a white cap and gown!

 The ceremony began at 2pm on a Sunday (although it started "Filipino time" about an hour late) and there were only about 30 children - but it lasted until 6pm!!  Read on for an understanding of why.

On April 2nd, I was allowed to watch our kuya, Genesis, graduate from high school - the Puerto Princesa City National Science High School (where you have to maintain a grade average of 85% or better - if you don't, you are required to leave the school).  I think I get invited to things because of my camera - and I'm so glad that I have a nice camera here so that people prefer to take me along for the photography!!! 

And on April 3rd, I was given one of only two tickets to attend the college graduation of Glenda, the 32 year old mother of four who graduated from Fullbright College with a degree in Elementary Education, with a specialty in Filipino.  I got teary-eyed when she asked me to attend with her husband, but when I arrived at the college, I was amazed and so honored to find that I was actually escorting her in along with her husband!  There were 200 graduates, and we lined up 3 abreast in a long line - Jun on one end, me on the other and the lovely Glenda in between. 

Our entourage of three




Although the ceremonies were named differently (Graduation, Commencement Exercises, Graduation Rites), the programs and physical set ups were virtually the same. There is always a central stage set up with a colorful backdrop - either a printed tarp in the school colors, or colored letters on a huge plywood.  And, always potted flowers in abundance.   For both the high school and college, the ROTC brought in the colors - at the college, they joined swords over our heads as we entered. 

The bulk of people arrive before the scheduled time ... and then wait until Filipino time - usually an hour after the scheduled time.  For both the little girls and the college, this was true (actually, I arrived at 5:45pm at the college and they didn't start until 7:30pm!!).  The National Science High School prided itself on timeliness - and actually started 6 minutes early!  I also heard today that Western Philippines University's graduation was processing at 2:02pm...so, it must be according to the culture of each school.

Graduates are accompanied by a parent or significant adult in their lives - Mario escorted JoAnn and Brenda escorted Jane; Mario escorted Genesis; and June and I both escorted Glenda.  All the graduates line up single file (although with their escort-s) and are announced over the loudspeaker - individually as they enter the venue. They drop their escorts at the stage and the escorts sit in a special seating area (hence the ticket limitation) because they participate in the graduation ceremony.  Usually, the graduating class sings the doxology and then the National Anthem of the Philippines - "Lupang Hinirang" is sung.

 Most of the time, people have their gowns on for the processional - but at the college, they entered holding their gowns - and then when they got onstage, they turned their backs to the audience and donned their caps and gowns.

Then come the valedictorian (or summa cum laude) and commencement speeches, after which the degrees are awarded individually - by at least  two officials.  (The valedictorian at the high school was quite taken with himself and the emcee had to yank him off the stage after 45 minutes of a rather obnoxious judgment of several of his peers, along with his suggestions about how they could improve themselves).

 
The graduates walk from their seats up the steps and across the stage - again individually, with complete titles of the person, their degree and their accompanying escort announced by microphone...remember, 200 graduates at the college....

The commencement speaker is heralded with fanfare - even if they have little to say, or say it badly!

After this, all collegians sit down and listen to another brief speech by the President of the college....then, their escorts are called back up, and their hoods are affixed - in the colors of the different majors - by a faculty member and their escort.  Only one escort was allowed on stage for this portion, and I tried to get pictures as Jun put on Glenda's hood.  However, one of the main tasks is for the school to sell photographs - and the blasted photographers kept getting in my way - so I never got a shot!!  At least for this there were 5 graduates on stage at a time, but the hoods were difficult to pin on, and this took a while....actually, I was starving at this point - it was nearly 10pm...and I'd already heard their 200 names and titles twice already - so I walked across the street to a cantina and for Php 20 (less than 50 cents), I got some great pancit and an iced tea, gobbled it down and went back....and still had to wait 15 minutes until they got to Glenda's name. 



Medals are a huge thing here - and they are truly heavy medals, handed out individually - in Genesis's case for MVP of the championship football team - and the parent comes to stage with the student and hangs the medal around his neck.  The obnoxious valedictorian had a sore neck to be sure - probably 15 medals and scholarships.  And, yes, these are announced individually, in detail by the emcee.



You know the end is near when the entire graduating class stands to sing the song they selected as their "Graduation Song."
"Jesus Loves the Little Children"
"Thanks to You"
"Here I Am Lord"


 And, if the attendees are still functional and not asleep like these poor kids - at midnight ......or need to eat or use a bathroom........    for those, there are more pictures to take!
       

  The Stats:
March 29th - Preschool - 30 children - 2pm-6pm
April 2nd - High School - 70 students-  6pm-9pm
April 3rd -    College  -   200 students - 6pm-1am


"But that is not all.  Oh, no.  That is not all...."

Because it was now 1:00am on Monday morning, I asked if they could drive me home from the college and we left in the tricycle ... for about 5 minutes....until the gas ran out.  No matter how he tried -even tipping the tricycle on it's side and using all his tricks, Jun couldn't get it started.  So, Glenda took off her cap and gown, slid over and mounted the motorcycle to steer, as Jun and I got out and pushed.  Through the back roads - over the stones and mud - through the dark and quiet streets we jogged, pushing the motorcycle and side car in our finery.  And, my oh my did the dogs bark - a cacophony of sound followed us - dogs howling along with our howls of laughter.  Until we arrived at Mario and Brenda's - fast asleep it would appear from their befuddled  and disapproving looks answering the door.  

Laughingly, we said good night...and, as the Cat in the Hat said, "That is that."

The Philippine "Brown Out"

It goes like this....

You are finishing the graphics for your PowerPoint presentation about 10 am on a Tuesday morning and all of a sudden, you are not online any more.  You double check by turning on the electric fan (which does not turn on), and yes, it is a brown out - something I'd never heard of before arriving here in the Philippines.  All of the electricity just suddenly dies, but it is not a black out, because only some neighborhoods have lost power.   It, as many things, are just accepted here as a fact of life and accommodated.

Whilst training in Olongapo, power blinked out early on a Saturday, after one of the old power poles basically split in half during high winds, and again when Typhoon Juan blew through - then, it seemed off more than it was on (typhoons are really scary at night when you can't see anything but can only hear the wind ripping trees apart and things crashing onto a tin roof - a cacophony of torrential auditory stimulation that wears you out so that you awaken exhausted).  But those were the freaky brown outs - the typical brown out averages once a week - and lasts from 30 minutes to 6 hours.  The first week here on Palawan, I attended a training for "Teaching Character in the School" which was attended by perhaps 100 people (and given all in Tagalog...but that's another story).  It was a slick, 6 hour presentation....rather, it would have been, but at 8:30am, the brown out hit...and lasted until 3pm.   The presenter didn't flinch too much - just changed his presentation a bit to be hands-on - and he was a born-again pastor and used to evangelism.

   So, everyone here expects such erratic behavior (from electricity as well as most everything else) - teachers and business people have a backup plan for all presentations requiring electricity...which is really difficult if you want to show videos on Autism and autistic behaviors.  Practicing my first presentation the day before I gave it - yep, the electricity went off for 3 hours.   Everyone assured me that the brown out occurred then so that I would not experience it on the following day - and they all assured me that they would also pray for no brownout - something worked!

The worst is when it is hot - sometimes in the middle of the night - when the fan just stops and you start sweating under your mosquito net.  I remember one night in Olongapo that Tess and I just got up and talked for a long time in front of the door...although I had so many mosquito bites that I'm not sure which was worse - sweating it out at 1am, or having a little breeze along with Anopheles.

The first week of the New Year here, we had 5 brown outs on 5 consecutive days and I wondered if the electric company was giving us a taste of what was to come.  But, things didn't escalate - except for one day when we had three separate brown outs for a few hours each.  On March 26th, Mario told me to hurry up and finish my dinner - I was baffled....until at 8:30pm, Puerto Princesa City made sure that all of its citizens celebrated Earth Hour together - they just flipped the switch and at precisely 8:30pm, all electricity ceased.  It was my favorite brown out by far.  The night sky was incredible with no lights to hinder viewing.  Sounds of televisions, radios and karaoke vanished and it was quiet - the quiet you could imagine that our ancestors of long ago knew well. A sense of primeval times...especially when the cockroaches skittered across the road - obviously confused by the instant darkness.  I ventured not too far from the house because it was just too dark to see without stumbling...but the memory of those skies will remain with me.