Saturday, July 16, 2011

Letting the Weekend Unfold

This weekend was to be wonderful - one of the clients of the school owns a beach resort in Roxas, about 2 hours north  of Puerto, and invited me to join her and her daughter.  She told me that she needed to go home anyway because her pigs needed to be fed - the sale of pigs is how she manages to have money to pay her employees.  The resort is closed now because her husband, a British psychologist is working in London, and her time is consumed trying to help her daughter, who has severe multiple disabilities.  She described an island offshore that had a fringe reef and her little banka that I could paddle there.   Due to my allergic body, I've not been in the ocean in months - and I decided that this would be my restorative.

But, first I had to cancel with my friend, RPCV, Rich White-Smith, who had forwarded info on a Yoga Retreat - Friday-Sunday.  I was looking forward to that - massage and meditation - but the fishes and reefs were calling to me...he well understood.

I arrived to work packed and ready - snorkel and mask the most important gear.  Fridays are PE days, and I was sweating while monitoring the maze of activities.  I heard that it was Alexandra's 6th birthday, and that Rubina, the mom, was bringing food for a celebration.  So, although she had missed school Thursday from a fever, they were still planning on going.  Fridays end at 12noon, but no Rubina....at 4pm she arrived - in a car full of people.  Kawawa (poor me).   I stuffed my face with delicious pancit (the most popular food for birthday celebrations - which the celebrant is responsible for purchasing) and a lemon cake topped with meringue (yum) from Grande's.  Then, at 5:30pm, I walked rather dejectedly to the highway, thinking I needed to do something, since my great options had bombed.

Up at 6am and washed the windows, swept the floors - and still avoided sewing the curtains to cover the under counter storage.  And then - a text message.  Not a Peace Corps notice of a typhoon or earthquake, but a request from the VP of the Chamber of Commerce to attend a meeting at Mitra Ranch - Rancho Santa Monica (home of a former governor and the current one) and to help formalize The Palawan Mango Growers Association.

I'd been waiting to work with the Chamber and was thrilled to go...plus, Mitra Ranch is beautiful - I've written about it before on this blog - high above everything, it's like Mitra was looking down from Mt. Olympus...a piece of heaven.

The reason that the Mango Growers are collaborating is to have a voice in a 25+ year old problem:  the Mango Pulp Weevil, 5-9mm of disgusting insect that loves the delicious flesh of the mango, and ruins it for us humans.


When I saw this picture, I first thought of the Beany Babies that Ashley used to collect, and I assume are still in the attic...but really, thinking of sharing my mangoes with this - yuck.  

Anyway - in 1987, this weevil apparently arrived from Malaysia, and appeared in some Palawan mangos - by 1995, the government put a formal quarantine on export of Palawan mangos - around 250,000 trees...and devastated the island's fruit economy.   As things typically go here - a government group was formed and assigned to find a way to eradicate the pest....and they have been funded for the past 20 years...but done little work.  Again, typically, there is no oversight - the committee reports on its progress not to anyone here, who are the victims of the pest, but only to itself, in Manila.  In 2009, the Department of Agriculture gave Php 1,000,000 to this committee to speed it up.  There are several growers, the Chamber, and the local agricultural department, who want to rectify things, and who want an understanding of what is being done.  The scuttle but is that there is only one study being done, and it is not related to the need....so it goes here.   What is exciting is that this small group of doers is organizing to have a voice!!!

So, Bart and I arrived a little early - I found that we were meeting here because a key player was the brother of the governor - Ramon Mitra - who upon introduction, said, "Welcome to my father's home."   I don't know - it just sounded so romantic....and looking out from the Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired veranda, I could imagine what it might be like to live in that grand time.   Sir Mon-Mon, as they call him, told me that his father had used the root stock of the indigenous Palawan mango that was a hardy variety (but not tasty) and grafted to it the sweeter  variety.  They rarely irrigated their mangoes because it was too expensive - and they were Ramon said that the stock was well adapted to the climate and terrain.  Mon-Mon had been out wrangling goats that morning - the goats were being used to clean up the land under the mango trees, which, after the quarantine, had not been coddled.


So, the meeting began with just 5 of us deliberating just what this Association of Growers would look like.  Then, someone noticed a huge cloud over the ocean - it looked like the dagger in the photos of all those killed in The Omen.  We wondered if it could be a tornedo, and if it would come our way.  It was rather spectacular.










We just stopped the meeting and watched - and took pictures.  I've never seen anything like this - the cloud kept descending, until its force came close enough to the water to uplift enormous quantities so that you could see the pressure indentation in the ocean, with the outer walls being sucked up into the vortex, now a funnel several thousand feet in the air!

Something I will always remember - miraculous to watch.







Then a torrential rain as we continued the meeting on the huge veranda, served meryenda and Cokes by the staff.  Smiling, Mon-Mon asked us if we wanted to try out the new zipline - oh boy.  Everyone but me was shy - Let's go!  Bart demurred, but the rest of us accepted the gift and caught the last zip before they closed - grabe!  Three separate lines - nothing as exhilarating as the Canadian zipline that Katie and I nearly peed over ... but a lot of fun.  The next time, Mon-Mon encouraged me, I should try going head first - "Like Wonder Woman."  I kind of don't think so....the 2nd line had no tires to cushion your stop - directly into a massive tree  (only the arms of the attendant stopped you) ..... caroming down that line, eyes fixated on that fast approaching, stationary slab was rather disconcerting; I don't think I'll be flying.

And, now, instead of snorkeling in Roxas, I'm searching for the legal requirements to establish a non-profit Association via the SEC in the Philippines - so glad that I just let the weekend unfold.

Friday, July 15, 2011

The very cool group "SVAC" of the "NPCA"

The Philippines is renowned for its love of acronyms - it's a joke when we arrived.  However, I think that we Americans started the whole acronym fiasco - I mean SVAC of NPCA?    I really hate acronyms and think they are made up by people who want to exclude others - the in-crowd knows the correct acronyms, and the outsiders are exposed as dodos when they flub the acronym. (Hmmm, a little too passionate - perhaps I need psychotherapy to resolve this deep-seated problem)

But, I did want to put my work with this group into my blog - perhaps my favorite group to work with.  The NPCA is the National Peace Corps Association for all serving and returned volunteers, and I just found this webpage with all of our information.

We are the founding members of the Council - while they have an Advisory Group, it is of Returned Volunteers - who can't reflect current conditions around the world.  So, Erica Burman, a very sharp lady who coordinates many things for the NPCA in DC, sent out a request for interested folks - back in Spring, 2010, when I had just gotten my notice that I was going to Azerbaijan (thankfully changed at the last minute to the Philippines).  I immediately sent in my application, and was thrilled when Erica accepted me.  One of my favorite things to do is to inspire idealism in younger folks - and these guys are already passionate, so it is FUN to get together....well, actually, we SKYPE at 9AM EST...which is 9PM that night for me.  Now that I finally have internet in my home, I'll be dressed in jammies for the next meeting.  We are also going to try out the new Google+ "hangout" in the hopes that we can all see each other.  This is much more up my alley of interest and expertise - strategic change at the core, rather than one smile at a time...   Anyway - here we are!!  From www.PeaceCorpsConnect.org  


Serving Volunteer Advisory Council

The purpose of the NPCA Serving Volunteer Advisory Council is to create a regular two-way channel of communication between serving Peace Corps Volunteers and the NPCA, the nonprofit organization that connects the Peace Corps community at home and abroad.  For more information about the NPCA Serving Volunteer Advisory Council, view the SVAC Framework.  To contact the SVAC directly, email the Secretary at ContactSVAC@gmail.com.  If you’re interested in being considered for the Council, contact Erica Burman (see blog post “Seeking Leaders in the Serving Peace Corps Volunteer Community“).
Sarah Anderson 
Albania
Born and raised in Maine, Sarah studied International Affairs and Economics in college.  Since arriving in Kucove, Albania, she has worked with the local government on a variety of projects.
Löki Gale Tobin  
Azerbaijan
Alaskan born and raised, Löki has extended to serve a third year as a Youth Development Volunteer with the Peace Corps in the Republic of Azerbaijan.
Win Williams  
Peru
Originally from Texas, Win is a mid-career Peace Corps Volunteer currently serving in Ica, Peru in the Water and Sanitation Program.
Nicole Fiol  
Uganda
Originally from Bayamón, Puerto Rico, Nicole is a Peace Corps Volunteer working in a Health Center in Pallisa District, Uganda, assisting on HIV/AIDS testing, prevention lessons and counseling.
Austin Land 
Dominica
Austin majored in Political Science and Philosophy at the University of Michigan and is currently serving as an Institutional Development Volunteer in the Commonwealth of Dominica in the Eastern Caribbean.
Alice Pettway  
Mozambique
Alice and her husband, A.J., are education volunteers in Mozambique.  Alice also serves as the National PR and Marketing Director for REDES, a girls’ empowerment organization founded by previous PCVs.
Zachary Pullin  
Belize
Born and raised in the Northwest, Zachary now promotes health in his Belize community.  He hopes to work to decrease the prevalence of HIV/AIDS and reduce the stigma of LGBT people within his region.
Kirsten Kensinger 
Guatemala
Kirsten is serving as a preventative health volunteer in the rural highlands of Guatemala.  Her earlier PC service as a TEFL teacher in the Republic of Georgia was cut short due to an evacuation.
Debra Pritchard  
Philippines
Debra is a 55+ recruit serving in the Philippines as a Youth Advisor to at-risk youth, and has career experience in strategic marketing for Fortune 500 companies and nonprofits.
Jon Schmidt  
Bulgaria
While serving in Bulgaria, Jon has been elected to serve a second term for the Volunteer Advisory Committee and co-founded the Tourism Task Force (Tourism Committee).
Travis Hellstrom  
Mongolia
Travis has extended for a third year in Mongolia, and has served as a Peer Supporter, a Volunteer Trainer and as a Volunteer Advisory Council representative.

Tuesday, July 5, 2011

Sometimes you just have to throw in the Towel

Make no mistake - I put my all into it - as I usually do.  And I stuck it out far longer than I should have...but sometimes, you have to give up on your dream and face the music.  As is frequently the case, at some point you lose your objectivity and convince yourself that you are just having a bad day, or that you are just feeling sorry for yourself, or that you should be stronger, or if you just put on a better face of enthusiasm you can conquer the issues...   So, my dream of living in a forest, in harmony with nature in my little nipa hut - began with visions of Snow White singing with the animals as she scrubbed the house of the dwarves; then morphed into Dr. Doolittle escapades; and then into nightmares of the scene in Indiana Jones where she has to put her hand through the hole alive with writhing insects to save Indy.   Sigh...

I arrived on April 16th and began scrubbing and painting and repairing all the various things that would make my little nipa duplex at Rancho Almonte cozy and comfortable.  I was strong and healthy and full of enthusiasm and excitement to be on my own.  The second day, I was covered with flea bites - didn't know that they lay their eggs in the termite dust and then hatch when disturbed by things like my Snow White cleaning.

I couldn't sweep well, but this is about 2 weeks worth of dust - note all the dust in the wall itself
The termite dust was quite amazing - I now understand all the termite inspections in California.  I witnessed their morning nibbles - similar to the mound a mole makes as it tunnels - the termite mounds appear on the surface as they eat and deposit.  My landlord scraped off their trail (about 10" long) in the morning....and I saw her in the afternoon - another 6" of trail had been redeposited!

I was in and out of my new abode during April and May - to Manila a three times - and thought that I fellt crummy because I had not exercised much.  Mid to late May, I caught a cold that wouldn't go away, and then morphed into what felt like pneumonia, which I've had in the past - and had no wish to experience here!
So, I finally trekked to the doctor - Peace Corps approves one or two in your locale, and I saw Dr. Varona, who tested me for all sorts of things, but found no bacterial infection, and told me to rest.  So I did - I went home and rested....and got worse.  After a week I returned and showed him pictures of the house and some of the bites, many of which are now scars, but others that just don't heal, along with the new ones.  I swear his eyes got big and round (no small feat).  He was appalled.  At that point, I realized that I had lost my objectivity.  I had told myself to not be such a wimp, but over the weeks my immunity waned and although I tried to 'enjoy' all of the critters, my health went downhill.  Dr. Varona wrote a letter to the Peace Corps and said I needed to move - NOW.  Wow, I got the message, but was really bummed because housing here is scarce - and when the Peace Corps limits you to 3,000 pesos/month ($60), even here it doesn't go far.

I distractedly walked to my favorite lunch restaurant, Divine Sweets (another, Heavenly Desserts is just a few blocks away)...not having internet either at work or at home is tough when you are supposed to be doing websites and grant proposals...I've stayed at Divine Sweets for 6 hours before and they have been wonderful in letting me use their wi fi - which is what I did after leaving the hospital.  Both of these spots seem to court an international set of folks - I've met divers on their way to Tubbataha Reefs, the head of the French NGO Endangered Species International, a family of missionaries who is based in Mindanao and flies in supplies to indigenous people, Filipino organic farmers and Australian missionaries with their new baby, on their way back to the mountains where they live and work with the tribes.  Fascinating to say the least.

On this day, I sat down and within 15 minutes, a young man walked in and asked if he could share my table as it was crowded.   Siempre (of course).  He was interesting - an OFW who had grown up on Palawan, but had lived in Malaysia for 12 years.  He was home for a couple weeks...I told him my story and said that I needed to move.  How strange is this - he had a house that he wanted to rent.  I finished my lunch and he had a leche flan (I knew we would do well together - my favorite dessert!), and we headed for a multicab to take a look at his house.  

It was malayo sa highway - far, far down a road (Ponce de Leon) and twisting through a couple of no-name streets to a subdivision in barangay San Pedro - a place called Bountiful Village.  It needed work all right - the llast tenants were druggies who had not paid anything for their last couple months - rent, water, electricity.  The yard was overgrown, trash was everywhere, and because the front door was unlocked, someone had had drinking parties in the front room.  But, it was totally concrete and every floor was tiled!  Hard to believe that it was perfect for my issues.   I told him that I liked it, but had to get Peace Corps approval and wanted a friend to give me a 2nd opinion.

That night I told my landlord about the doctor's visit and felt bad telling them I had to leave - I really like them.They had made major efforts for me - buying me furniture and making the duplex more secure.  I have spent close to 10,000 pesos repairing their place, and also lose my deposit, so I think they will be okay...but we are all disappointed.

The next morning, my friend, Rich White-Smith, here as a Peace Corps Response volunteer, biked over and met me.  He walked through and finally said - "What's the downside?  I don't see any if he makes it secure and paints."   So it was that I met Mark Antonino Taha Ribo on Monday the 22nd, signed the lease on Monday the 29th and moved in on July 2nd!!   A whirlwind of activity, and a beautiful new place - my palace!

My favorite (tailless) Tuko bid me goodbye


My family of Tuko - all 6 of them - appeared the last night, and my favorite - the tail-less male, came down and talked to me for a while.  Later that night, I made my midnight way to the CR, kicking at the ipis (cockroaches) and flipping them into the kitchen area.  Sitting on the inidoro, I watched one of the females run down from the ceiling, grab a huge cockroach in her mouth and undulate back up the wall to eat it.  Ah, the memories I will store from this journey!!





My family here - Brenda, Mario and Jun - arrived at 6:15am on Saturday morning to move me ...I had awakened 15 minutes earlier - they go to Dawn Watch service at their Born Again Christian church, "A Touch of Grace," every morning from 4-6am and were wide awake.  Thankfully, most things were packed, but I was too slow and they whisked everything into the multicab within a half hour (all the time muttering - "Maraming gamit Tita!" (so many things Auntie!), and other things in Tagalog that I couldn't catch - but they were certainly having a laugh on me.  They asked if I was ready and told me to get in the back of the van - there was a little space specifically for me.

The 'ref' looms over me





I thought we were ready to go - but they just needed me to get in before they roped the refrigerator to the back of the van, effectively sealing me inside.  Luckily my book was handy - Bill Clinton's My Life.  Then, the guys put the heavy bamboo bed, and the three rattan shelving units on top of the multicab...and we rolled out at 7:00AM!

Mario turned 50 today - he had a workout!



I am packed inside while Jun and Mario loaded it all and Brenda photographs






It is a bumpy ride to Bountiful, but I was so wedged in that I barely moved.  All my new kapit-bahay (neighbors) watched as we unloaded all my gamit - stuff.  Embarrassing.  We unpacked everything within an hour and left for an early lunch (9am!).  We sang Happy Birthday to Mario - who shares the same birthday as Katie - the 4th of July!  Jun and Mario headed off to Bahile, to finish building a nipa hut for their mother, and I took a multicab back to Bountiful and began unpacking.  I've been so beat that I haven't put up my mosquito net - and haven't been bitten!!!

The welcoming spider ("It's just a house spider, Deb")
I was greeted by a great spider, but other than the tiny red ants that crave sweets as much as me, there haven't been bugs!!  I was startled this morning when I fumbled in the bakery bag for another small bread, and a little gecko looked back at me....I wondered if he'd been in there all night...but finished my bread - that's what happens when you get used to living here.

Weird angle (it's my ribcage), the bites not only itch, they hurt
I was feeling guilty about leaving, and thinking again that maybe it hadn't been all that bad....but the night before I moved, something paid me a visit to remind me of how I had lived the last three months:














And now a glimpse at the new palace - (of course, never content, I am now feeling guilty that I live alone in this wonderful place....but not guilty enough to invite someone to live with me or to leave!)

The living room, looking out to the front entry gate


 
Guest bedroom

Living room with door leading to Master
The kitchen
The Living Room 

Kitchen
Master bedroom


And the CR is huge and tiled!!




So, sometimes, throwing in the Towel is just the thing to do!