Slowing down at the Underground River

I had been told to slow down - but, as I said to someone - what does that mean?  Does it mean stop?  Does it mean I should ride my bike more, sleep in, speak more slowly, do more, do less - what does it mean?  Is it a dichotomy to be "determined to slow down"?  Kind of like setting an afternoon a week aside to be spontaneous?  But, I am trying to slow down...and getting better at it!

I have been advised to "play the game" - and I'm thinking that I've never played games of facade well - although I do love charades and pictionary...but I've always thought of games as fun time rather than in the workplace.  Yet, that is the kind of game that I'm being advised to play, sigh.  I will have to work on that - the most I've ever been able to do is to smile and say nothing.  While I do see that culture dictates "right" and "wrong", I'm not sure that I'm willing to adopt a different facade and say things that I don't really believe, which is rather the custom here...I guess to be hospitable and agreeable.  Maybe I can just be silent and not agree???

In any case, a fellow PCV arrived last week and I basically helped her all week - negating any need to slow down or make any decisions - for three presentations on Art and Play Therapy as well as two days at my center composing an Art curriculum specifically for the SPED children there. And then the weekend arrived!

Five of us PCVs hired a banka (for Php 1500 - about $30) and sailed first to the reef and then to Snake Island for a day of sun, snorkeling and eating.  The boats are hired in Santa Lourdes and you have the boat and crew for the entire day and can decide on any destination within Honda Bay.  I love to go to just one island and swim and snorkel for the entire day.  We purchased a large lapu-lapu which they grilled for us, and we ate the succulent fish with our hands.  I must admit that most of the day I was submerged with the fish - swimming up and back, watching my favorite three clown fish on my favorite huge anemone, and counting the vibrant blue sea stars and the incredible iridescent blue clams.  And, I emerge with a smile on my face every time. 

We inaugurated all of the kitchenware of Matt and Krystal and warmed their new house - called the Peace Corps house in Santa Monica, since at least two such couples have lived there during their 2 year stint here on Palawan. 

And, on Sunday morning at 5:30am, I walked to the San Jose bus terminal where Sam and I boarded the D'Christ jeepney to Sabang and the Underground River - a finalist in the running for the Seven Natural Wonders of the World.   Sam arrived in the nick of time - I had been hard pressed saving a space for her on the packed back section of the jeepney which quickly filled with a 50 kilo bag of rice, 10 children, 10 adults and a rooster, which pecked my butt and Sam's arm before he was repositioned.

The trip to Sabang is about 2.5 hours through beautiful rolling hills filled with forests and jungles.  There is one stop for snacks where vendors come to the windows with pancit, hard boiled eggs, peanuts and drinks.  The peanuts were delicious, but some children drank too much orange soda and while his mother held him out the window, one boy urped it up....unfortunately, I was the next seat, downwind.   We arrived on time in Sabang and went immediately to register for the river tour so that we could take the last bus back to Puerto at 2pm....oops - most folks were with tour guides and the earliest we could go was 3:30pm.

I was secretely pleased (since I was trying to exercise my slowing down muscles) that we would stay.  We found Mary's - a bahay kubo room, with "bathroom" for only Php 300 each - perfect!  Right on the beach.  So, we went for a swim before lunching (chicken pineapple curry - yum) and setting off for the River, a 15 minute boat trip exposing the gorgeous shoreline of Sabang.

Many boats litter the small beach abutting the River entrance and the turquoise water is incredible.

Incredible too, are the inhabitants of this part of Palawan - the monitor lizard, with flicking blue tongue 

(and wide eyed American standing next to him/her);



and a troop of macaque monkeys walking through on their way to nowhere., or somewhere.

We returned after a memorable row through the pitch black caverns - we were the ones in front holding the powerful light to shine on formations. 

The boat holds 12 people but looks tiny in the caverns

The Mushroom (in the Fruits and Vegetables section)

        

The Candle - 20 meters high

 
 
We returned and watched as men carted a load down the beach with their carabaw.

Had another swim and read in our hammocks

until the stunning sunset faded and darkness closed in.



We awoke the next morning to board our jeepney back to Puerto - yes, that is a motor-tricycle at the top of the jeepney.

After this picture was taken, about 30 people boarded the already full jeepney - an amazing feat - people hanging on the sides as we barreled down the hills toward home.

Yep, I'm slowing down and loving it!!

It was the Best of Times; It was the Worst of Times

Warning:  No pictures in this post
I haven't wanted to take pictures to illustrate what I am talking about ... for good reason


In Manila I was chastised for comparing America to the Philippines.  But, how can anyone not compare their culture to another - and contrast it as well?  Not to criticize either one per se, but to take stock of the fascinating way that each society produces and then adheres to specific values, and sets in place beliefs to perpetuate their society.

I was told that I was a critical and negative person who offended others - and looked around to see who my Filipino manager was describing.  Wondering how on earth I had projected such an image here, and feeling really down and guilty - those who know me know how much such a comment hurts.  Reflecting on the how, I think it was just in those differences and each culture's perception of "good" and "bad" and their reaction to the reaction of "others".

In this country of tiny, exquisitely formed women - with no hips or thighs - I am a bulky, obsese giant of a person.  I stick out like a sore thumb.  Even today, when I got on a packed multicab, there wasn't a spot big enough for me and I almost got back off.  But this was the first multicab in 10 minutes and it was raining.  I squished in sideways and apologized to the entire vanload of 12 people:  "Pasensiya, mashado ng malaki ako."  (Excuse me, I'm too big).  In America, physical issues are more overlooked - here, they are highlighted in conversations.  "It's been a long time since I've seen you, you don't look the same," said a former male co-worker to Ofel one day at a chance meeting, "You've got so many pimples all over your face now."  Although it is inconceivable to me that she didn't take offense at this, I saw no reaction from her - either at the time, or afterward.

I, on the other hand, really do not like people loudly proclaiming to the world my worst physical faults over which I have little control. Poking me around the waist and patting my behind comes to mind..but several people do that to me - and I constantly flinch...some see that it bothers me and increase their poking; others see it bothers me and cease.  In the beginning, I tried to laugh with everyone, and made fun of myself a lot...but, it gets old, and doesn't seem to help the teasing or acceptance.

I've seen mothers here tease their youngsters and overwhelm them with tickling and poking and playing.  They appear to be proud of their children, but also tease them in front of others as well.  And, what is termed "enabling" in America is standard here.  Mothers do everything for their children and are quite amazing - very different from American culture which tries to 'grow' strong, independent children through enforcing logical consequences.  Here, parents give in to whatever a child wants - and doesn't discipline when things are broken - they just buy a replacement.  Here, it is common that chlidren sleep with their parents until their early teens.  Children are expected to live with their families - in many cases in the same compound, into adulthood, through marriage, family and old age until they die (however, the average age of death here is 66 years old because of poor nutrition, pollution, and quality control that the US takes for granted - and complains about).

It is easy to compare sanitary conditions - they are very poor here due largely to lack of a reliable infrastructure - water, electricity, gas, waste control, etc..  But, habits also contribute.  Most people take off the wrappers to bags of chips, and toss them wherever they finish eating...and even in this environmental city, there are few garbage bins - so people toss garbage on the street.  Manila is staggering with it's lack of waste disposal.  During training in Cavite, just outside of Manila, we went to a mall in the pouring rain - a friend of mine had a small cut on his toe - the next morning he couldn't walk and needed antibiotics for his toe, swollen from the bacteria laden trash in the streets.  Palawan is lucky that the Mayor of PPC has so focused on the environment for the past 20 years and has enforced anti-littering laws, with hefty fines.  However, people still urinate as needed and it is not socially unacceptable - in Olongapo, where I trained, elderly ladies wore no undies just so they could squat if need be.  And, it is normal for a man to relieve himself anywhere at any time (I always have been jealous of the male anatomy in that regard).  On the other hand, public toilets are rare, so what's the choice?

A fascinating contrast to America is treatment of animals in the Philippines.  Very few people treat their animals as 'pets' and there are the sorriest animals I've ever seen dragging themselves through the streets, searching for a scrap of food.  I am such an animal lover - but have thought that they should exterminate the sick ones - there are such genetic defects and diseases passed from mother to the litter.  I've never seen such horror - mange that causes bleeding through every orifice as well as through cracks all over their skin - the dogs actually appear pink due to the blood just beneath the surface of the skin.  They seem to live outside a particular house, but the owner doesn't seem to care, or help the health of the animal.  And yet dogs and cats continue to have litter after litter....even though there is a veterinarian in Irawan who gives free spay and neutering - he is a Belgian.  But, he has few takers for his free services.

Interesting to Americans are the habits of acceptance of fate here - including pollution and health issues.  I've met several Americans who almost foam with frustration at these issues. I suppose it might be a form of the  Philippine "bahala na" (it's up to God), and as I have said, I think they give it up to God a little too quickly.  Medical issues are really interesting - I'm talking about "sore eye" which is accepted as a 'winter' problem and goes through entire families.  This is conjunctivis or "pink eye" in the states - and can be completely avoided by washing hands - although here, people shake each other's hands, looking into blood red conjunctivis without consciously thinking that they will soon have sore eyes.  Another is lice - very accepted here - you can see people grooming each other's heads with a lice comb at their lunchtime -  they use the comb daily, and squish the lice between their fingernails.  They just accept that they will live with this, rather than try to eradicate it as Americans would.  Similarly, lamoc (mosquitoes) are mostly accepted, and eradication doesn't occur as an option - they laugh when I am covered in bites and say it is because I am white and giving the lamoc new skin to try.

Who is right and who is wrong?  There are some simple solutions to these problems which bother Americans.  But, they don't bother people living here - so why do we need to change them?  To a point, I agree with what I perceive as the way the Peace Corps addresses things - only if the people you are serving want to change things, for whatever reason, do I feel that we should 'help' them change.    However, when disease is involved, I differ -  if there are known ways to prevent mental retardation for instance, people should be aware - and there are many, many consequences here of malnutrition - including physical deformities and mental retardation.  There are diseases and deformities I've never even heard of before, let alone seen. 

One man in Manila was entirely covered in boils so awful that his face was malformed.  I have seen so many people with deformed feet - many club feet - so that they can barely walk - and I'm talking young people.  I can't imagine the pain that they must feel to just walk one block.  I've done a tiny bit of research into these issues, and the main factor seems to be malnutrition - from cleft palates to club feet to retardation.

And I've never heard of so many people with asthma - constant phlegmy coughs that rack their bodies day and night.  I keep getting worried with their racking coughs, asking them if they are sick - but they just say, "Asthma, Tita" as though it is just their cross to bear with nothing for them to do.  The strange thing to me is that they blame it on the change in the weather - and totally disregard the pollution here as a cause - although nearly everyone carries a hand towel to breathe through on their multicab or tricycle commute.  In addition to the awful exhaust pollution (leaded gas is the norm), every evening and morning (they say when the wind is right - but I haven't noticed any difference), there are enormous walls of smoke that encircle entire neighborhoods as people burn their leaves - and trash, including plastic.  And, this is in Puerto - the most environmental city in the country.

So, it is fascinating at the least, to understand how each society gets to the point they are.  At times I'm ashamed to be an American; at others, happy that my culture is not this one of acceptance and giving in/up.  I simply do not understand it.  I have always tried to improve things - myself mostly - but also things for others who say that they wish it.  I am having difficulty helping people who say they want things to change, but don't really seem to.  So, I am just observing and reporting for now.

50th Anniversary of Peace Corps - March 1, 2011

I serve on the National Peace Corps Association's Volunteer Advisory Council (known as the VAC of the NPCA - love those acronyms!)  The head of publicity revived a Top 10 list started by RPCVs from Colorado and asked us to submit our own Top 10.  Thought it would be bit hard for me since I've only been in country 6 months - but, as I wrote, I found there are TONS of things that will always stay with me - the good, the bad and the ugly!

In any case - here's what I wrote:

Debra Pritchard
Country: Palawan, the Philippines
Years: 2010-2012
Assignment: Children, Youth and Family


1. Realizing, after the second hour of trekking through the rainforest outside of Olongapo, toward a beautiful waterfall, that I couldn’t keep up with the 24 year old PCVs….and worrying that maybe I’d waited a little too long to fulfill my lifelong dream of serving in the Peace Corps!

2. Arriving to my host family in Olongapo and having the same birthday, favorite color and blood type as my host “mother”!  
3. Going to bed my first night on Palawan – to the amazing cacophony of trumpeting frogs – hundreds of them – so loud that I couldn’t sleep!

4. The incredible beauty of the ocean – snorkeling on Snake Island with sea kraits, schools of Moorish Idols and iridescent blue giant clams.   Indescribable.


5. Carrying with me at all times: my umbrella, insect repellent, bottled water, hand disinfectant and a facecloth (used either to cover your mouth to block pollution or to absorb sweat from the heat and humidity).


6. New sounds – symphonic frogs, lizards that talk with their tails and tuko geckos that first chortle and then bark amazing vocalizations…oh, and of pigs slowly slaughtered – like shredding sheet metal.


7. The most amazing, torrential rains ever seen – and the shortest “dry” season (summer) imaginable – 2 months! And then the rainy season starts for 10 months, but it’s 80F year round.

8.  On a sunny day, feeling the air in your hair as you fly down the hills on your new bike! (And, because the roads are unpaved and full of rocks – getting up the next day with a very sore tail bone!)

9. Being divorced in one of two nations in the world where divorce is illegal – and where the Peace Corps Tagalog dictionary’s sample sentence is, “Divorce is forbidden by Jesus Christ.”

10. Night visits from centipedes, 8” spiders, 5 types of frogs and moths with a 10” wingspan..and sightings of enormous fruit bats gliding 100 feet high above at dusk.




The amazing Tuko - the tiles are 16"


I may have to start a Weekly Top 10 because there are so many things to say about this experience!



The trip back from Snake Island

Carabaw with Jun and Renato

The Parent and Child Relationship

One of the issues that got me into hot water and was completely misinterpreted was my fascination with the way children are treated here.  I was told that I am always comparing things to America - of course I am - but not as "right" or "wrong" - "good" or "bad" - just fascinating to look at and appreciate how our native society determines our values.

In my family household here, there are the mother (39 years) and father (49 years), 14 year old sister ( the "ate"), 16 year old brother (the "kuya") and two young girls aged 5 and 7. 

The older sister and brother do most of the work here everyday - they alternate making the dinners and cleaning up (not quite like in the states - here, things are cooked over a flame and plates are handwashed in soap and cold water).  This is every night. 

The mother (or a hired laundry person) does the washing and usually the hanging of the laundry on the outside line - again, all laundry is done by hand with a scrubber - and for a family of 6, it is a lot of work and your body hurts afterward.  However, again, alternating, the ate and kuya do the folding, ironing and putting away of the laundry - usually done every three days.   I've even seen the ate get up before school (she leaves at 7:30am) to iron clothes for the little girls.  She is also responsible for the evening showering of the little girls - usually done just before she starts cooking dinner.

This is expected here - that the older brother and sister do most of the work and hold the family together.

And, the younger children play - even when the older siblings could use help.  And they make messes, and are generally 'makulit' - annoying.  I mean they only make messes and are served their entire waking hours - they even yell, "Tapos na!" when they are finished on the toilet, and their parent goes in and wipes them.  It is spellbinding to me how makulit the little girls are and how responsible and quiet the older children are.  In the early days, when I asked questions, I asked the ate about this.  She told me that when she and her brother were little, they were even more makulit than her little sisters!!!  Hard to believe, but their cousin verified this for me one day - she said she hated to come over here because they were so badly behaved.  I asked when that changed - she said only when they began high school!!!  When I asked Ate what would happen when she was older, she replied, "I will be very tired" - no kidding! 

It is amazing to me because the teenagers are SO responsible, helpful and quiet.  I contrast this with the American upbringing of having consequences for poor behavior and teaching the child how to behave in different circumstances from an early age.  Here, in my family, there is little to no discipline and mostly acquiescence to whatever the child wants - the exact opposite of what all the child psychologists in the US say is healthy.   However, in America, when a child becomes a teenager - rebellion starts; and I know many adults who continue being 'makulit' into adulthood!  Here, when you become a teenager, you have responsibilities and expectations, and for some reason, teenagers settle right into them - not forced into it, but seemingly out of respect and face saving.  And, as many of my ruminations - one wonders about the "scientific validity" of research when practices do seem to work in other cultures - doubtful that psychological research is cross-cultural...

One of the hardest things for me to get used to here is that the girls are allowed to do whatever they wish - and my personal space is a lot larger than theirs.  This includes touching me on my butt and laughing, "Malaking puwet!" (Big butt).  I thought they would get tired of it, but they still are doing it (as well as patting my boobs "titi") after several months.  They also invade my room and get into all of my things...I've had to lock my door, which is not what I'd really like to do.  But they can really make me crazy. 

And for such tiny little girls, they are LOUD.  Another fascination:  when we are watching tv, they are cross-talking and yelling at each other....but no one asks them to even lower their voices - and everyone (except me) seems to be able to ignore them and can still hear the program on the tv!!  I can't figure out if I'm just lousy at concentrating, or my ears are really having problems.

For Christmas, I gave them each a pair of sparkly earrings - and the next day, the youngest had dug out the "jewels" and totally broken the earrings.  I guess it was okay and expected - no one said a word; as usual they just laughed.  This was similar to the coloring books and crayons I bought them when I first got here - they broke all the crayons, ripped up some of the pages...and proceeded to throw the pieces of crayon at me, with onlookers.  Yep - the culture is different.  My problem is that in trying to understand what was normal, I asked questions - which was interpreted as criticism.  Although I personally get irritated with the way the little girls treat me, how could I possibly negatively comment on which way is "better" - I don't even think that way!  But, the outcome seems pretty good here and one has to wonder about the research into the best child-rearing practices.

It's fascinating.

Stranger in a Strange Land - 6 months in the Philippines

Stardate February 16, 2011....one of the worst days/weeks/years of my life. 

We had entered the nebula TawKabui during the height of the rainy season of torrential rains on our Peace and Hope mission  from Starfleet.  We entered hesitatingly, not knowing what we would find.  It was miraculous- the inhabitants were friendly by nature and seemed to want all sorts of help from our universe.  However, not knowing this planet, we worked slowly with communication and double checked slowly and methodically what they wanted from us - for ours is a mission of peace; not of forcing things on civilizations who don't want what we offer, or will discard it after we leave.  We were thrilled that their commander expressed that we should proceed and even invited several outsiders to work with us to set forth a plan.

Fortuitously, they spoke our language - but in hind sight our problems came from not completely understanding that while we could communicate with words, the concepts and meanings were not the same - and although we thought they understood what we were communicating - they did not; and although they felt they were communicating and were understood - they were not.  However,  we seemed to make fast friends with the natives and were invited to tribal gatherings and celebrations while we worked feverishly on several projects that they had requested - luckily for us, we were from the future, and had knowledge of the things they most desired - or said they did.  That again became an issue - our speed felt like the speed of light to them.  We assumed when they asked us for something that we should do what they asked - apparently theirs was just an inquiry rather than an expectation that action would be fulfilled on the request...another mistake on our part.

At the height of their rainy season in mid-December, most work ceased here, and there were almost daily celebrations for their high holy days of Christmas.  We traveled with them and made several connections with officials attending one of these celebrations - and received promises of free medical exams for the children, funding for a garden project for their vocational training and agricultural help from professors at their university here.  Actually, we were rather overwhelmed with the response, and worried about getting everything in order to submit proposals as the officials had requested. But, working with key people, we were able to have follow up meetings with the officials, which actually stunned the Kabuians - they were not used to asking and receiving help.  Nor did they know how to

We proceeded with composing a communication portal for them - called a website here, and also a "newsletter" vehicle that they can send out over their computer system via templates that we set up for them.  We also recorded for them our knowledge of specifics on the disabilities afflicting their children and documented it in a 100 page resource notebook.  They seemed quite happy, but somewhere along the line something that they call "chika chika" started undermining things, as well as our over-zealous attitude of accomplishment.  After the fact, we heard many "she said ___"  and "she said ___" (which we had never said), which illustrated how badly things had been misinterpreted.  And, how resentments fomented.

Thus, on February 16th we had a major miscommunication with the rulers here, resulting in harsh words from both sides.   Through many miscommunications and gossip (the chika chika), our best efforts were viewed as being thrust upon them and they were insulted.  Little did they know at the risks we had taken to provide recommendations for their interests through personal requests - so not only were they insulted, we endangered personal relationships at home by vouching for these people.  They actually called Starfleet and asked them to send us on our way - but, luckily, our Sector Manager immediately flew here at warp speed for a mediation termed "intervention".

We cannot express the depths of angst we went through during this time - to think that we came on a mission of Peace and Hope, and unwittingly insulted people we only intended to serve.  Also, our lodging was furnished by family, and these kind people would not look at us or speak to us for many days.  To say the times were awkward is an understatement.

We are still apologizing daily, although we have finally stopped the waterfalls of tearful regret offered last week.  And, we now do not trust what we thought was a common language (lord knows we can only barely speak their native tongue!).  We also see clearly that, although they appear to have similarities to us, that they are truly a distinct culture - a universe apart from ours - they do not understand our culture or mannerisms just as we do not understand theirs.  We find ourselves in a very uncomfortable daily life now - one of reparation of our actions - although we trust no one. 

Where we once laughed and asked about their culture, we have ceased those questions, which were interpreted as criticisms of their culture - so, our curiosity has been curtailed.  The nature of their religion is such that we never felt comfortable addressing it in any way - except to say that we worshipped at our own church - however, that did not stop them from trying to convert us and pressure us to attend their church (they attend daily from 4-6am, except Sunday when they are there from 8-6pm).  We have had intimations that they view us as heathens, but there is little that we can do to help that except abide by our morals.  They have said that only their prayers will help these children, which is difficult to hear when we have techniques that will help them, but we are abiding by their wishes.

We were also recalled to Starfleet to meet with the Commander in Manila and her generals.  Although it appeared to be a follow up protocol for the "intervention", of which I am not familiar, it was a grueling and humbling process.  We were blamed for the entire misunderstanding and told to cease moving forward and just to exist with these people to understand their ways.  This is very difficult for us, but we are now exploring more of the area and attempting to go outside of this group to affiliate with others on this large island province.  Thankfully, Starfleet did not see fit to put us on probation or send us back home, but it is abundantly clear that we are strangers in a strange land here, and for now, are in protection mode.

Written with sadness and wariness,
February 28, 2011

Maligayang Pasko!

Maligayang Pasko and Merry Christmas!!!

Pasko (Christmas) here begins the 1st day of September - I awoke on September 1st at 6am to Alvin and the Chipmunks singing "I Can Hardly Wait", followed (thankfully) by "Joy to the World" sung by humans. Joie, my host sister told me that Christmas here officially begins "with the -BER months".

So, Typhoon Juan was experienced with Christmas music (when there weren't brown outs), as was the Ms. Gay Pride parade and the leave-taking of my wonderful Paje Family in Olongapo.

My arrival here on November 13th to work with Taw Kabui on Palawan coincided with the children's intense rehearsal schedule for their Christmas stage performance at the Capitol on December 10th (phenomenal that these severely disabled children performed well in front of 400 guests - great experience for all).  Thus, except for the last 4 days of August, my entire time in the Philippines has been cocooned in Christmas. Or so I thought.

Nothing compares to the advent of December 1st: THE BER of the -ber months!  I haven't been to as many parties, events and celebrations in the past 5 years as this last month!  I hit the ground partying here - and, as in the States, parties are networking opportunities...I was the new kid on the block and excited about my NGO and took action.  So, Pastor Mon, his wife, Ofelia, and I were able to get the word out on the NGO and secured a lot of interest and commitments from social workers, academicians, health workers and foundations.  We were overwhelmed with the interest and the work 'we' need to do...I'm just so happy that I know how to do this and can show them!  The week before Christmas, we attended four parties, I think and this week probably another four.  We were able to attend a sumptuous dinner the Mayor  held for out of town dignitaries   

and I sat next to Mayor Hagedorn, whose focus on the environment has gained him mega awards.  Now, we hope, he will show interest in the plight of the Special Children here and support us! 

The food, you ask?  Lechon (an entire roasted pig in full view on the table), vegetable and pork lumpia, fresh grilled lapu-lapu or tilapia or yellow tail, chicken curry, meatloaf, radish and carrot salad,  lobster hollandaise in the shell, gargantuan hipon (shrimp); and sweets: agar-agar salad (seaweed),  maha-blanka (corn in a sweetened cornstarch base with coconut on top), flan, bicol (sweetened rice), ube (violet colored sweetened yam), buko salad (coconut), etc. etc.  Enough carbs and cholesterol to kill Santa Claus...just like home!

The gift-giving was different from American traditions - my Ustares family had everyone over for Noche Bueno (Christmas Eve) and we chowed down on spaghetti, chicken adobo, macaroni salad, seaweed (beautiful and really salty and crisp) and snails 

       (I couldn't believe it - I hunt for hours at the beach for shells (kabibi) and they are chowing down on these beautiful creatures - depressing to see all the easily purchased shells) and rice (ubiquitous at every meal and every occasion).  The gift-giving wasn't the main event, and not everyone gave (or got) a gift.  I couldn't figure out who got presents ('regalo' here), but I think all of the children got one and some of the adults - several people gave me presents and I felt guilty that I only had a few small gifts for my immediate family (which I gave them later). 

We feasted Noche Bueno and Brenda and I were to attend a women's group party on Christmas Day, so we put the left overs away for that.  I stayed up late doing some work and fell asleep around midnight.  I awoke to a great clamor at the locked gate around 6am - yells of "Merry Christmas"..and knew that teenaged Genesis would never wake up.  Jessa Mae let everyone in and I felt awkward joining since I'd not recognized any voices.  Finally, Jun came to get me  "Tita Deb!  Come out!  It's another party!"     Came out in my pj's to about 20 people chowing down on all the leftovers!  This also was another tradition - that no one told me about (I mean, why would they?)  Cousin Jethro said, "The termites have arrived" which I really liked!  Unfortunately, Brenda and I had nothing to take to the next party, but what a fun surprise!

So, at 9am on Christmas Day, about 25 women met at a local swimming pool (where there were tons of people - a tradition it appears) and had a gift exchange (I stuck to the 100 peso limit as instructed, but was embarrassed to see that others spent much more). 

These women have started an empowerment group and it was wonderful to watch.  Everyone talked about their difficulties and blessings and thanked God for everything.  Many tears and smiles.  Including mine when they accepted me as their "adopted Pilipina." 

The pool water was too cold and crowded to do real lessons, but I tried...and am determined to have Brenda, Ofelia and Glenda swimming before too long.  It is hilarious to see Ofelia in her woven winter cap, sweater and sweat pants, saying "Malamig!" (Cold!) when it's 24C (72F) outside, but maybe I'll get her in the summer.

Today is the 26th; my family is at church all day and I'm contemplating here in my room.  Thinking of all the blessings I have had in my life, and that this is an unlikely place to find happiness.  No hot water or shower or TP; seven sharing one bathroom; mosquitoes, tuko and frogs as roommates in an 8x8 room; unpaved roads of dirt/mud/rocks; hand washing muddy clothes with no dryer; no oven to bake my Christmas cookies (1st time in 30 years no cookies!!).  But, I'm needed and valued and accepted for who I am in an incredibly caring and loving culture.   Really, what more does one need?

Blessings to everyone in America, on this Christmas Day, 2010

76 Kalye Maunlad, Tiniguiban, Puerto Princesa City

This is the name and address of my new host family and where I will be living for the next three months. (And where you can send letters!)




Maunlad means "progressive" in Tagalog, though the kalye dead ends at our neighbor's house.




The barangay of Tinguiban is about 15 kilometres from Puerto Princesa City (PPC), the provincial capital of Palawan. It's a 10 minute walk on dirt/rock streets (on a sunny day - you don't want to imagine a rainy day) to get to the National Highway, where you can catch either a 'multi cab' (costs 10 pesos) or a 'tryke' (costs 40 pesos) to bayan (PPC).

Although you can see tourists in PPC, this is a residential area, and I've seen no other whites here, and everyone stares at me wherever I walk - especially when I walk with my host 'mother' Brenda who is 4'7" - what a pair we make! And the transportation is even smaller here than in Manila - the multicabs fit perhaps 10 Filipinas, but my legs are so long that I extend far beyond half the width of the cab, and I consistently hit my head getting in and out...almost blacked out once because I hit so hard!!

And everyone speaks Tagalog...except me. If I am expected to participate in a conversation, I literally start sweating - no bullets yet, but dramatic. Yesterday I was in an air conditioned office watching the Pacquiao replay and two men were talking and including me. I sweat profusely, but managed to mumble enough correct words to get by - whew!!

The Ustares family with whom I live is lovely - Mario, 49, Brenda, 38, Genesis, 16, Jessa Mae, 14, Jane, 5 and Joanne, 4. Mario is the younger brother of Ofelia, the wife who, with her pastor husband, founded the NGO for Special Children called Taw Kabui, where I work. They all belong to a 'born again' Christian church, and the parishioners all adopted Taw Kabui as their church mission and staff the school. Quite amazing people. They are devout: daily church services at 4am and Sunday from 9-5pm. I've told them that I am Unitarian, and although they don't recognize that here, they haven't pressed me too hard (yet?) to join them. I have taken to reading the Bible occasionally, which pleases them. My main problem with religion is the hypocrisy and the destruction caused by those in power. And, it is the same here, although the people I've had the privilege of living with here in the Philippines are the best people I've met in my life - true to their convictions and practicing what is termed "Christian" values. Charity, even when they have little to give; bonding together to help each other; checking in with each other; humble; accepting of others with different beliefs; supporting family and community members who are somehow incapacitated, etc. Wonderful, wonderful people.

The size of my room shrank a bit from my Olongapo digs - there's room for a single bed and a table and fan. It looked like this when I just visited the first time. However, now that I've moved in, it's messy most of the time! I haven't figured out how to keep all of the papers, medical kit, toiletries and clothes organized with only 1 hook on the wall and only one table - much of my stuff fits under my bed. But I'm working on it! I feel badly that I have kicked Genesis out of his room - he now sleeps on a bed like mine in the large kitchen, but he has never said a word - even that this was his room.

The roof is very tall, although everything is open - no ceilings on the rooms and the 10 foot walls stretch up reaching for the 20 foot high roof. Mario has done a lot of work on the property - the kitchen is completely remodeled and stands alone and lockable.

There are no ovens here - the stoves are propane and like hot plates. There is an open area between the kitchen and the rest of the house where we grill food, wash pots and hand launder the daily laundry (a story of its own). At the back of the property is the living area and CR (comfort room). I haven't had a hot water shower since arriving in the Philippines - all are 'bucket' showers with cold water - but at least the water is from a faucet and I don't have to pump it. Mario has laid beautiful tile floors in the entry, my room and the CR, although, again, there are no ceilings in any of the rooms and only temporary flooring - Mario put a ceiling in my room a few days ago, so now the moths don't swoop in, and most of the frogs and centipedes stay out (although I do like finding the tiny baby frogs). My (unscreened) windows abut a swamp that fills with the most amazing frogs...well, yes, and mosquitoes too...and the noise is incredible after a rain when they are happiest!

I've now been here about 3 weeks and am - dare I say it? - happy. I truly enjoy the people I'm around and feel that I can really help these folks out. I'm a wealth of knowledge for them because the Philippines is so far behind the US in learning disabilities. I've written a script for a video that I'll start filming tomorrow with a potential investor from Colorado who is very interested in helping us; I've completed much of the teacher training curriculum (specific disorders, how to teach SPED and special therapies); and we've written a proposal that we're praying gets funded for a donation of used computers and equipment with which we'll stock the new office and teacher/parent Resource Center that a group of us are building in late December - Wow!!

I haven't bought a bike yet because of the sharp rocks in the roads here, but when I find a place to rent in the next couple months (surrounded by mostly paved roads!), I will explore to my heart's content. As it is, I've swum in the South China Sea and boated the Underground River cavern, where I saw this 4' long monitor lizard.

The entire family (20 of us) took me to White Beach last week, where I swam for literally 3 hours in luxury. And, the family is planning to take me to their family homestead in Bahile about two hours north for Christmas - for an adventure I only hope pans out!

All of this and I enjoy the people I'm helping and am making contributions in an area I care about and which makes a huge difference. There is so much poverty here - even my middle class family has just enough to put on the table - there are no feasts and I have gone slightly hungry a couple of times. But it doesn't really matter - the smiles are everywhere and people count their blessings and adore their families. And are so accepting of me - how could I not be happy?

Blessings to all!

PC Trainee no longer - I'm a PC Volunteer!!

Finished boot camp in Olongapo, left my family there and had an official swearing in ceremony in Manila, with 70 other PCTs - now all PCVs. Sounds like I'm in the army now!

Pa and Annie - my roommates and anak na babae dito (daughters here) got me ready. Pa straightened my hair and did my makeup and I looked Fabulous as you can see here:

My counterpart from Palawan asked me, when we arrived a couple hours before the ceremony, if I was excited and I was rather blase...but as curtain time approached, I realized that I was really excited. The country director, Sonia, asked if I would be willing to speak with the press and the Embassy - wow!! The ambassador sought me out afterward to compliment me on the interviews - what an honor. I've been bummed not to find the interviews anywhere online, but just doing them was spectacular on an already spectacular day.

We left the next day for the Manila airport - ridiculous traffic..a 40 minute drive took us 2.5 hours.....but we made the plane with time to spare, and arrived in Puerto Princesa City (the capital) in the early evening. 7 people came to get us and we barely fit in their "multicab" - especially with my huge luggage - brand new and scarred - ripped pocket and mangled, unusable handle. My room is pretty small, so I use the luggage to stack my pants and blouses (although while I was laundering today, I noted a broken oval mirror stand and am now hanging blouses on that - scavenging here is a necessity :).

The morning following arrival, I met a PCV who has been here for a year and works on the environment - in El Nido - "The" spot in all of the Philippines. It is a 9 hour bus ride from here, but she promised free SCUBA gear if we help her kill the crown-of-thorns starfish that is eating all the precious coral. If you want to see the biodiversity and beauty of the Philippine marines, just go to the San Francisco Natural History Museum, where the permanent exposition is The Philippines - it's astounding...and to think that I now live here!!!

The Ustares family, with whom I live, speaks mostly Tagalog (and four or five other languages of the Philippines), and I resume my Tagalog lessons tomorrow with a college educator niece of the agency's director...and one of the uncles (Jun for Junior) wants to meet with me every day at 2pm to practice conversation - my head hurts already. But, the agency has a big fundraiser performance on December 10th at the Capitol in Puerto Princesa and is practicing and practicing, so, now is the time for me to cram!

Seredipitously, Pastor Mon (the director) emailed an American who had promised to help fundraise - we agreed that introducing me might prompt something....the following day the man said that he wanted to do a video on our agency and that he would be here in December!! Yikes. So, I wrote a script and theoretically will be videotaping this starting next week! My first week here has been quite eventful.

The Philippines reminds me of where American schools were about 50 years ago regarding Special Education. Actually, they only term such children as "Special" here - there is little actual education taking place. Many children are abandoned by there parents because they know that they can't take care of them; poverty here is almost unimaginable for most of the people I know in America. Mothers will sell their new baby in order to pay for food for their other 5 children - situations here boggle the mind. But, placed in similar circumstances, I think I'd do the same. When you live here, you begin to see that there is no "right" or "wrong" - that most everything is situational - and that only a tiny, tiny percentage of Americans have experienced anything like this at any time in their lives. So, the "Special" children - the deformed, deaf, blind, mentally retarded, autistic - are the first to be abandoned. Those parents who attend to these children are offered no hope for the future and keep their children home from schools which are unequipped to teach them, and students who bully them. Many times children are hidden from the view of communities who do not understand them and shun them and their families.

Lest you be shocked, or feel superior - I recall "Chuck" in my elementary school in California - he was mentally retarded and rode a bike to school - and was babysat in a sequestered room. I remember the boys constantly teasing him and think his life must have been miserable. But, at that time, there was no such thing as SPED in the states - even progressive (and, at that time, well-funded, California). And everyone suffered the consequences.

I came to Taw Kabui, the NGO here in San Jose barangay, Puerto Princesa City, Palawan thinking that I would work to help them with their policies and infrastructure. I was taken off guard when I discovered that these folks have very little training in SPED, but have an incredible amount of Love and Patience and Dedication, just like SPED began in America so long ago. So, it seems that my first tasks will be to train the teachers in the various disabilities (of 52 enrolled students, aged 6-22, all are non-verbal - a daunting task).

And, the communication issues continue - not only have I not been able to telephone anyone (no signal most of the time, and even when all the bars are there, I get cut off!), the teenagers in the family downloaded games onto their computer...and my laptop, external hard drive and USBs all now have a Trojan virus. I'm taking a multicab (like a jeepney, but a Palawan version) into town tomorrow to try to find someone to bail me out - if you have any frugal ideas for me, please email me!!!

Yesterday, the host-mother of my PCV friend and site-mate in Puerto took me and others to the Underground River - quite amazing. I'm sunburned today from swimming in 80 degree water before we entered the river. Stalactites and stalagmites galore - it is about 10km long! Check it out online
















So, at this, the end of my first week at my home for the next 2+ years, I am happy and at peace. And wishing everyone well from Paradise!!

Diary of our “Street Immersion” program in Manila

We have done several practica here in Olongapo: literacy at an abused girls' home; sports camp for 50 abandoned children and tutoring at the Old Cabalan high school. To round out our exposure to and understanding of difficult circumstances that youth find themselves in here in the Philippines, we journeyed 3.5 hours to Manila to experience the lives of prostitution, living on the streets and other modes of livelihood of the truly poor (less than $1 a day).

Friday: Up at 4:30am to catch the 6am Victoryliner bus to Manila, where we had what is termed a “courtesy call” – usually a visit of respect to introduce yourself to a government official or agency. In this case, we visited the Department of Social Welfare D (USWD) and listened to a vice-official (the head of the department was in another meeting – something we’ve experienced here frequently and, I’m guessing, to be expected in general). Then off to Childhood Asia, who works educating street children via mobile units and educators who build ties with the children and actually conduct lifeskills and literacy education in the backstreets of Manila with urban activity all around. Our visit was cut short by rain, but we then visited Harrison Mall and witnessed pimp/prostitute action within minutes of arriving. The difference for me was how blatant everything was and how young the girls were. Casey had a pimp lead him to a row of young girls, saying “take your pick – 1500 pesos” which is the equivalent of $30US, and another in our group was approached by a mother, offering her 15 year old daughter for the same price.

Saturday: Several of us breakfasted at a new venture of Indigenous People from Mindoro – fascinating and brilliant man who has really helped his group…I got his email. We visited another agency – ERDA, based in Belgium, who worked with street children and schooled many of those out of school to pass the alternative skills competency exam (ALS) so that they could continue with their education. ERDA took us to a site they serviced, where children acted as scavengers: Smoky Mountain garbage dump – which had, by far, the most impact of anything I’ve yet witnessed. Walking on compacted trash 30’ deep, we watched ant-sized children comb the distant 100’ high mountain of garbage, smoldering as it decomposed. Well inside the guarded dump was an official barangay – with a captain, a council, church (fittingly, “Our Lady of the Sorrows”), daycare center, pool hall/videoke and sari-sari.The strangest thing was watching as people went about their lives - women walking with sun umbrellas and men bicycling to work. This neighborhood of many hundreds of people was staggering as Manila’s public acceptance of this as a way of life for its citizens. As low as this made me feel, I wondered what the city would otherwise do with the mountains of trash being “recycled” by these occupants, and secondly – what would all of these people do to earn their meager living if the dumps were all destroyed? Such are the issues here.

We finished the day by traveling to another wonderful agency to help them feed about 100 street children in a public park. After playing group games with them, we served them pansit , bread and bananas to them, noting how some of the children saved some to take ‘home’ to their parents who also lived on the street.

We ate that night at a schwarma place near to our Pension Natividad and in the red light district of Manila, where, after the best chicken schwarma I’ve ever had, we went to the corner bar to witness how prostitution works here. We saw old, ugly, white and Chinese men with the more legal aged girls probably 40 years their junior (although we were told that the 12-15 year olds were also housed upstairs). I’ve never seen this, but it didn’t seem that different from what I imagine goes on in the States – the difference is that I didn’t observe any young girls, which is the true focus of our work – preventing such child abuse…however, I can’t imagine that any prostitute wouldn’t swap her job for another paying the same salary, and the blatant debasement of women upset a majority of the group.

Sunday - After a brief language lesson, Kit took three of us (Matt, Annie and me)to Intramuros, the beginning of the Spanish settlement of Manila. The Peace Corps said that more Americans touring together would be a bad idea, but we missed our other two companions – we’ve formed a tight bond. Intramuros was beautiful, historic, and put smiles on all our faces, counteracting the stark reality of the previous day.

We rejoined Pa and Chris and headed for MOA – Mall of Asia, supposedly the largest mall in the world. Didn’t find much we needed, and headed back for an early night of packing with the anticipation of meeting our supervisors for the next two years – and finding out where we will be stationed and which area of Children, Youth and Families we will deal with for the next two years.