Friday, May 27, 2011

$55 rent plus water and utilities - Rancho Almonte


Rancho Almonte Duplex
Alta Homes Road
Barangay Santa Monica,
Puerto Princesa City, 5300 Palawan

600 square feet of living space
2BR, kitchen, shower
Php 3,000/month, plus utilities and water


After my host family understood that I really was serious about having my own place we began searching (I threw a fit one day and they finally gave up fighting my moving out).  Abodes that any of my U.S. friends would barely consider were far outside of my limits – in the 12,000/month range (about $350).  However, the Peace Corps allowance is for Php 3,000/month, or $55.  As instructed by my regional manager, I found three alternatives for housing so that when she came to approve one, she would have some options.

I liked one that was far out on an unpaved road, about 100 meters from the mangrove beach in Barangay San Jose – it belonged to the sister of one of the school parents.  Although it was in disrepair, it sat on about a hectare of landscaped, but overgrown fruit trees and gardens.  They would allow me to stay there for free and put all of the rent into repairing it.  I loved the idea, although the folks I work for immediately started talking about having church socials there and using it when visitors came into town…if you are family, what’s yours is ours.  So, when the Peace Corps refused it because it was too isolated, I was somewhat relieved.

The second place was a 5 minute walk to another, more accessible mangrove beach and I really liked it (well, I like the idea of it – the owner was going to rebuild it for me).  It also sat on a good piece of land,  on a paved road, although I would have to take a tricycle to get to the highway for transportation – it was set far back in Barangay San Miguel.  One reason I liked it is that I found it and the church didn’t know about it, so I felt free.  However, there was major work to be done on it, and again, it was too isolated for safety reasons.

The Peace Corps is always concerned foremost for a volunteer’s safety,  and they are under a lot of pressure at the moment in the US – I’ve only seen a couple of the “exposés” that have aired on US television – and they are scary.  Being in another country is not a walk in the park, and you have to be aware of the dangers – and they are many…I’m not talking about the bacteria or poisonous animals or malaria or dengue fever or  typhoons or earthquakes or volcanoes – I’m talking the humanoids from  a totally different culture, who have never seen white people before.  It is disconcerting to say the least when groups stare at you – the worst is when babies scream - terrified by my foreign blue eyes – I tried to imagine what they must look like when all you’ve ever seen are brown eyes.  Probably like a demon…and there are plenty of legends and beliefs here of bizarre monsters that steal babies and maidens in the dead of night.  When you hear college educated young people talk about the Aswan, you really get that you are in a different world – they truly believe it, and I've heard of older couples going out at night to "hunt Aswans".  So, if you are not careful in many ways, and even if you are – you are often a target in this country.  Countless times children, and adults have asked me for ‘mani’ (which means peanuts in Tagalog), but they aren’t asking for peanuts – they are pronouncing “money” and they clutch at your hand or even pat your pockets, or, as happened to me in Olongapo, trip me by stepping on the back of my sandal - desperate for something.      I am pretty trusting, but really have modified all of my actions here and only say no.    So, I am grateful that the Peace Corps was looking out for me regarding my housing, and definitely changed my vision after a male Peace Corps manager rejected my first option, saying – “If you were a native – sure, you could live out here….but as a white person, you are a target because everyone thinks that you have money; they don’t understand that you are a volunteer…and, I don’t care how many bars are on the windows – they will get in.  And, if you are in the way, they will kill you.  Out here, you could scream for hours and there are no neighbors close enough to hear.  This place actually gives me the creeps.”   

Okay then   – he made his point very effectively….and I started looking for places within a family compound – very common here.  Generations live together on one piece of land, but in separate housing.  In Olongapo, where I trained for 3 months, Tess and I lived in her home – the family home that had been expanded 6 fold.  Her son Oliver and his family of 6 lived slightly in front and to the side of Tess in a 2 storey structure and her son Joseph and his family of 3 lived in back of Tess.  Her husband’s sister also lived directly in back of her house – all separate, but all entered through one front gate.   This is common if the family has lived in the town for generations….not as common if they moved to the area as adults….as my family in Puerto Princesa did.  Here, each family has a home, although Mon and Ofel have his sister and mother living with them as well, but not in a compound setting.  However, an hour north in Bahile, where the family grew up, there is a family complex.

The place I finally settled on (after looking at really ugly places – one room affairs with the bathroom outside – or a yucky duplex with a shared bathroom and outdoor kitchen, etc..) is in the middle of the family compound of the Almonte family, who has lived here for years.  There are uncles and aunties to the back and side of us – and on the other side, lies one of the homes of the former governor (his wife is the current Vice Governor), Governor Joel Reyes (accused, with lots of evidence, that he had Doc Gerry Ortega assassinated because he spoke out on his weekly  radio talk show against illegal mineral mining here – and noted that the said Governor embezzled money at the expense of the citizens and environment).  Very telling that there is so much evidence, but no prosecution.  He has many homes in the Philippines and abroad and is supposedly out of the country.  His wife remains as Vice Governor and the newest luxury hotel that just opened in Puerto Princesa is said to be owned by him.  As I said, there are many dangers here.  I’m hoping that he stays abroad, because I would bet that many people wish him harm – Ortega was beloved and is now a martyr.

I love my landlords – Helen and Noynoy Almonte.  They have four grown children, and only one daughter still lives with them and attends college here to follow her mother into midwifery. Good midwifes are badly needed since hospitals are often tens of hours distant, over rough roads on cramped and filthy transportation.  The hospitals are also subpar here in the provinces, so midwifes are valued.    As most families here, the children and parents truly love each other – so different from America today where teenagers are expected to be difficult and disobey their parents.  Mothers and daughters walk arm in arm on the streets, chatting away.  Helen told me that she and her daughters talk about everything – especially their love lives.  She said that they have always confided their “secrets” to her and that they have always gotten along she thought my question odd. It is fascinating to me to watch the acceptance of daughters here – if a mother says to do something, there is no question – even when it seems a bit much to me – there is absolute respect (no rolling of the eyes and certainly no talking back) and compliance.  The closeness of the family is slightly claustrophobic for me here, but the family support is something I admire greatly….and the relationship of the mothers and daughters hurts my heart because that was my biggest intent for my relationship with my girls...a fractured dream for me.   I have noticed that as the elders get more elder, they long for some privacy – I’m thankful that the mother of my host family asked the family to build her a separate bahay kubo so she could be alone.  It is almost funny for me to watch the faces of the daughters as they grapple with the thought that their mother (78 years young) doesn’t want to be with them all the time and wants to have her own space – they just don’t understand it….but it has made my living alone at least accepted by the family.  


Before I moved here, my plan was to get a little puppy for a companion, and I fell in love with a blue eyed puppy across from the Center.


 Ah, my silly dreams – I now lock the door against the dogs that live here:  Sandy, owned by my duplex neighbors, Eric and Pinay (short for Philippina) and Puppy, owned by Patricia, the daughter of the landlord.  Sandy is skittish and won’t come near me (when I asked his owner if Sandy was a boy or girl – she told me a boy…she had had the dog for 3 years…then she double checked – and said, “Oh, I guess it’s a girl”….hmmm).  Puppy plays and plays and is a fun dog…but animals here are hard to care for – and get into everything – and everything gets onto them.   Some of the animals obviously had mega fleas, because my first night in my place, I received about 100 flea bites, which have lasted over 6 weeks now and some of the bites still have scabs – yuck.  No puppy for me!

When I moved in on April 16th, I questioned my sanity – what was I thinking?  The place was dirty, dingy and small.  I spoke so little Tagalog as to be useless, and I couldn’t have a puppy to cuddle with.  Mario and June moved me in and when they left….it was  q u I e t.

So….I went to work on the place.  I spent all of my money on paint and cleaning supplies.  I worked out a deal with the landlord that I can spend Php 1,000/month on repairs and beautification (although at the rate I’m spending I’ll never recoup it!).  But, for the first time – today, I feel pretty good about the place.

I’ve painted the ceiling in the living room – it was really dark inside – now the white ceiling helps brighten it up.  The paints here are the perfect color when first applied – and then dry about 2 shades darker.  So, my walls are much darker than I’d imagined, but they look clean and fresh and I’m adapting to a pretty intense salmon pink.

The kitchen and CR were the toughest to resurrect – really yucky.  My Mother’s Day present from Petra, one of my Peace Corps daughters, was to help me clean up the area and start painting.   

I felt guilty, but she really knew how to prep and paint – it was wonderful working with someone instead of doing everything myself.



My landlords purchased heavy bamboo furniture for me – a long and a short ‘couch’,   

a bed (I borrowed a 2nd one from Brenda), a small dining table and 2 of the heaviest chairs I’ve ever lifted (shown above, demonstrating the amazing wall colors), and a little table and two chairs for the patio.     
So I need nothing!  I bought a framed Chinese jade art at Unitop for Php 320,

 and a native Palawan mask today for 200.

Tomorrow I’m going to frame a couple of my pictures – the Sabang sunset is my favorite – and will put those on the walls.   I’ll probably buy another rattan shelf for the bedroom and living room – I’m acquiring way too many books!  And then I’ll purchase the propane gas and hook up my stove.  I’ve been existing on banana shakes and Fila crackers and Ramen and been perfectly happy.  But, at some point it will be nice to cook something and shop in the palengke for produce.   My refrigerator is still in the living room but I’m trying to find where the kitchen ceiling leaks are so I can move it out – Typhoon Chedren hits tomorrow, so I’ll get my chance to see how badly it floods. 

I’m planning to put in a concrete counter and tile the top so I have some space to work in the kitchen.  Hopefully the carpenter who took out the nipa palm ceiling (and found a 8” dead rat there) can also do the counter mura (inexpensively).

I’ve already been here 9 months and I’d like to have a comfortable place while I’m here – hence the hurry up part.  But, now that the rainy season has begun, I bet I’ll have ample opportunity to hang out and appreciate my life here in The City in A Forest – Puerto Princesa, Palawan.

The Before:                                                                             The After:

The Kitchen Area

The Living Room

  

            From the Kitchen into the Dining Room                  
         And the CR is Reclaimed!

Milestone or Millstone?

Events on May 19, 2011 (my 60th Birthday) were uplifting at a crucial point for me - and I thank everyone for supporting me when I needed it.  The sending of lovenotes and texts and phone calls and Skype and email and American Greetings and FB, etc. etc - renewed my flagging spirits.  And the entire day was spent connecting with friends and family - both in the States and here in the Philippines.

Actually, I arose early - before dawn - and stumbled for the CR (comfort room - or bathroom) - but stopped after opening the door leading to the CR. There on the kitchen wall in front of me, where my flashlight spotlighted them, were two copulating tuko.  I must say that they were rather complaisant in their endeavor and seemed frozen - giving me time to retrieve my camera and take their photo.  I took this as an auspicious omen for my 60th year, although I'm not quite sure what it means and am trying to locate a local healer to understand the import.

I ventured into Puerto early so I could get wi fi and connect with friends in the States...one of my favorite places is Heavenly Desserts, where the food tastes similar to American standards - they even have a taco (no, not real cheese, but it's close).  I ran into the head of the Peace Corps language instruction who was here on vacation - and leaving with about 10 others for Tubbataha Reef.  I'm saving my pennies for that excursion.  Lots of fun talk with them about their trip and excitement was rampant.  As he left, Edmund bought me my own personal birthday cake!!!  What a treat.

Katie sent me an American Greetings card - animated with her personal message spoken by a squirrel (we have a history with squirrels) - and I cracked up - tears rolling down my face as I laughed...and people watching an old white woman laughing out loud - fun. 

And, that evening, many of us convened at the church for my formal 60th Birthday party!


The custom here is that the birthday person pays for the festivities - but I had told them that I had no money to put on an entire party...so my family pitched in to grill fish, make an incredible chicken stew, veggies,


 and, of course, I purchased plenty of cake.













Gilda Rosario - my sister here


So, I ended the day revived, and feeling loved.  I would say it was a Milestone birthday, and I haven't felt a bit of the Millstone yet!!


With Jane and JoAnn







Brix and his Lola Winnie and Katarina

CONSUMER REPORTS – HOUSEHOLD ESSENTIALS Summer, 2011


CONSUMER REPORTS – APPLIANCES and HOUSEHOLD ESSENTIALS
Summer, 2011

This is the 2nd part to our Summer Household issue.  Appliances were covered separately, and we now address the conveniences that make a household work.

HOUSEHOLD ESSENTIALS

These are those essentials to daily life here on Palawan.  Again, this is only based on my location – we do not have earthquakes, typhoons or volcanoes like most of the Philippines, but Puerto Princesa is named The City in the Forest for a reason.


1.   Bug spray 

1.       I use two kinds – one for the normal crawling bugs (ants, cockroaches, etc) and a more powerful one for the fleas.  They say that termites are another story all together, so I just listen to their munching in the walls and as long as they stay in their house, I don’t bother them. I’ve been spraying daily in certain areas and I just hope that I’m not harming the tuko lizards, whose food is the ipis (cockroach).  They seem to be going outside more, and sleeping inside because there are fewer cockroaches…I hope.


2.      







    2.  The kalambo, or mosquito net 
      I keep it up at all times.  I’m sad to say that not everything is kept out by my net, and I have nightly ant visits when I go to bed.  Oddly, they mostly stay for 15 minutes – falling into my bed, and then leave me alone.  However, this net is wonderful – big enough to not be claustrophobic and keeps the majority of buggies out.


 
 3.  The map of the Philippines is nice, but it’s actually the mirror that I’ve needed
     ........in some cases to see what is crawling on my back.  Novo sells these in fashion colors (the other side of this one is bright blue to accommodate a variety of décor) and it only costs Php 35 (so I bought two)


    4.  A place to hang your clothes purchased at the Ukay-Ukay store.

I now frequent them only when there is a sale – the last one was ridiculous – Php 5 for each article – I spent 50 and brought home 10 blouses (boy do I sweat here).  This is just a pipe hanging from the wall by wire…I’ll build a shelf on top – one thing you learn is to never leave anything on the floor.


    5.  Plastic storage tubs.


These at least discourage critters from entering – several of the smaller ants have easy access to just about anything they want, but the larger dudes can’t get in.  If you get desperate (As I have-ants were eating my chocolate graham crackers!), you can put these nice tubs in the Ref. 

6.  A larger mirror

       Just bought this larger mirror yesterday at Unitop for Php 59 – great to see more of my body (that’s not quite what I meant)….it helps to see what all of you looks like rather than just your head. 

    7.  A flashlight


Essential to scout out where the centipede or cockroach or scorpion or termite mound might be, and to make sure you don’t step on a frog during your nightly trip to the john.


 8.  The Gas Stove
 
Obviously you need the propane for this to work, but, doesn’t Kris Aquino look nice on the box?  She is the sister of the President and endorses more products than you can imagine – a close 2nd to Manny Pacquiao.
       

    9. Purified Water
       A MUST – even for folks who live here.  There are just too many amoebas in the water.  I returned my REI filtration system at the recommendation of a PCV, but kind of wish I had it here.  However, Keith’s Aquifer is just down the road and it costs Php 35 for them to deliver  a 5 gallon blue jug of water to my door.  Great deal.
          

    10.  Laundry Essentials


This and a clothesline is all you need for your laundry – really.  It takes a while to do, and I usually have a good backache at the end, but the entire bathroom is clean (I finally figured out what to do to not have water all over the place – just do the laundry in the shower!) and the clothes are ready to hang – oh yes, you will need an inside and an outside line – clothes have a difficult time drying in the driving rain.
                     

    11.  Bathroom (CR) Essentials
 
      And this is all you need in the bathroom/shower!  The toilet scrubber, the tile scrubber and the bucket and tabo (think of it as a primitive bidet).  This shot will also be seen in the ‘before’ and ‘after’ shots of the duplex, showing the improvement of the CR (Comfort Room).
         
    12.  This is the wonderful walis (broom)                 

It looks nice next to my framed art on the wall, so I leave it there (it’s also at the ready for intruders)

  
    13.   And, the most essential  – ELECTRICITY, however you can get it.  
                 And these shots show just a few ingenious ways to get electricity where you want it!  
 
The original building

Goes with any decor

At least the fuse box is accessible - in the middle of the living room
No electrical outlets in the kitchen...so from the bedroom, through a hole in the screen


          OMgosh - forgot another essential - shown so well in the last photo - the versatile DUCT TAPE!!


Please contact me if you have comments or updates to these recommendations – remember that where you live may dictate your own favorite Essentials.  Goodbye for now.













Consumer Reports - Appliances - Summer, 2011


CONSUMER REPORTS – APPLIANCES and HOUSEHOLD ESSENTIALS
Summer, 2011

In America, we have many conveniences that one doesn’t find here in the Philippine provinces.  However, I did want my friends to know what living on your own here looks like – and have compiled a Consumers Report of sorts, rating what I consider the best appliances and household essentials.  This first Report deals with electrical appliances.

APPLIANCES

#1    Hands down Winner:  The Electric Fan

This morning, we had another brown out (defined as a sudden cessation of electrical current, causing all machinery to stop abruptly and for an indefinite period of time), and the true value of this item was felt with its absence.  Comes in a variety of sizes, configurations (standing, wall and desk), power (household and industrial), and quality (from Japanese motors to local brands).  I purchased two Asahi fans which are convertible to any configuration, although I run them in the standing position (so that I can be seated 3 inches away from them to efficiently force the sweat off me).  Note, however, that during the summer months (granted, we are only talking two months), that these are “fans” and not “air con” – thus they forcibly blow 40C (104F) HOT air in your face, which rather defeats the purpose.  During the rest of the year, however, these double as an efficient way to keep mosquitoes from landing on you, and do a good job drying clothes indoors during the rainy season (about 8 hours dry time).

Recommendation:  If you are not of the elite class who should purchase air conditioning and a backup generator, this is THE Essential appliance for you!    
JoR Wholesale, Rizal Avenue – Php 1,720 each


#2   Gastronomic Tie:  The Ref and the Electric Blender

Of course you know that all reviews and recommendations are biased and rarely represent what you, yourself find appealing – that little man falling down in the theatre rarely captures my feelings for films.  Thus, one must have a penchant for ice to really understand the relative ranking of these two treasures.

 As many appliances, the ref is used for several purposes.  My favorite is freezing ice and keeping water cold so that I can use the Electric Blender to make mango popsicles and banana smoothies.  I also use it as a storage unit for foods that ants seem to like as much as me.  I’ve used it to store food trash after dinner before I take it to the outdoor trash bin to limit the fruit flies, cockroaches and ants (I’ve counted 7 types here so far, but that’s another story).  The top also serves as storage of a myriad of items, from plates and glasses to plastic bins of spices.  Be sure to look at the electric efficiency ratings on various models – I saw dinosaurs with a 107 rating – My Panasonic is 270 and I feel good about that.  Prices are ridiculous – small off-brand refs and dinosaurs cost only slightly less than good brands that will last for years..well, probably.  I shopped around for this expensive item – which cost me twice the total moving allowance that Peace Corps gives us to outfit our new abode ($120).  I saw tiny models for Php 6,000, and acceptable ones for Php 10,000…But, for 2,000 more, I bought an enormous Panasonic  7.7.  My thought was that when I leave it for an NGO, it should be large enough to serve the children.   And, I do love the freezer! 
JR Wholesale, Rizal Avenue  - Php 12,240


The electric blender (not pictured) is a needed companion appliance for my daily smoothie consumption (although as it was in use, it could not be photographed before post time).  I bought the heavier Asahi stainless steel version because I knew I was going to chop ice.  However, I did not know that smoothies would become my breakfast (and often my dinner) of choice!  So, this appliance is performing hard labor and does a wonderful job:  4 lakatan bananas (the sweeter type), 1 tablespoon of milk powder, ½ tsp of molasses sugar and a tray of ice – YUM.  Obviously there are mango and papaya smoothies as well – and each of these freezes nicely in the Popsicle forms I purchased at NCCC on the 3rd floor.  I do wish that Asahi would have considered that most floors here are concrete and made their blender lid shatter resistant…since chipping it, it can become rather messy in the kitchen.  I also cover all the smaller appliances at night with a sheet, and do not wish to explain in detail here the reason why.  In any case, if ice is your thing – you need these two appliances!
JR Wholesale, Rizal Avenue   - Php 1,500

#3  Warm Comforts - Electric Hot Water Pot

As much as I love ice, I love Milo in the morning – especially with pandesal.  It is so much easier for one person to heat a cup of water in the Electric Pot than an entire kettle on the expensive propane stove. 
Sales people at one of the two department stores on the island will regale you with why you should have the more expensive model…as always, when you are white, it is assumed that you have money to spend.  They still seem to like me well enough, but I consistently dash their hopes of lucrid sales.  I chose the small, less expensive model of Asahi at Unitop, and have regretted doing so.  Already, the automatic shut off has somehow broken – often the large plume of vapor alerts me that my water is beyond warm.  Actually, I’m going to take a Milo break…     sadly, it really will not shut off – but Milo on a rainy season afternoon is quite nice.  Highly recommended (the more expensive version) – within seconds you have a cup of hot liquid and I’ve even used it to heat up water quickly to use in my rice cooker. (Editor's postscript:  Debra's lack of engineering skills was obvious - her electric pot's shut off works fine - purchase the less expensive model).
Unitop Department Store (the only store with an escalator in town), Malvar Street  Php 599

#4  Suck it up!! - Hand held Vacuum Cleaner
Ah, one of my daughter's favorite epithets to me...
Again, this recommendation is based on my living conditions – I live in a duplex whose exterior is concrete, with some of the interior walls concrete as well.  However, the interior ceilings and walls are made of woven Nipa palms – and thoroughly infested with termites.  I grew up in California, and saw television ads with those horrible mobile vans with big black threatening bugs on top promising to rid your home of whatever infestation you had.  I never understood the problem….and, now I know.  When I moved in, one room had not been cleaned – there was literally ½ inch of dust on every exposed piece of wood.  I assumed that the former occupants had left cardboard on the floor and it had glued itself down…when I began cleaning I discovered that the red earthen look was in fact that – a termite mound was being built in the 2nd bedroom!!!  I have since scraped most evidence of the mound away, but the little buggers still live in the wall – it is not the pop, pop, pop of Rice Krispies you hear in my house.  I scoured the stores here on Palawan and could not find a small vacuum cleaner like a Dustbuster – you need to get into those small spaces with this problem.  So, while in Manila for a conference, I canvassed stores at Robinson’s Mall, and finally found a great little vacuum on Easter Sundy.  Lucky for me there was a ½ price sale only for that weekend – and this little machine has sucked up more termite poop and flea eggs and dead roaches than I want to think about.  Highly recommended for peace of mind and smooth, unbitten skin. (Not pictured - much too dusty to appear online)
The Home Shop, Robinson’s Mall, Metro Manila  Php 5,000….marked down to 2,500!!

#5  Everyone's Staple - The Rice Cooker
 I must admit that I have not used this appliance as yet.  One reason is that I am sick of rice, although that is not the main reason.


Although Brenda and Mario lent me their propane tank, I haven’t had enough money to rationalize filling it up – it costs nearly Php 1,000 versus 500 for a gallon of paint.  So, I’ve opted to paint the walls rather than cook meat which goes with rice.  Additionally, although I had the tank, I only recently bought the pipe and valve.     The tank weighs a ton even empty and I’ve not yet figured out how I will have it filled – probably will ask a trike driver to do so and will pay him to lug it back in.   So, although I have only cooked spaghetti in my rice cooker (it did an admirable job), I would recommend getting one as I did, with the non-stick finish.  I’ve seen what happens without it and it’s not pretty... reminding me of traumatic times growing up when  I left something too long in the pot…and the long job of soaking, scouring and scraping to get the black out.  For a single person, I only got a 3 quart Hanabishi brand (although every Filipino who has seen it sneers at its size)
JR Wholesale, Rizal Avenue  Php 850

I’m sure that there are more appliances you were hoping to see, but this is all that I have…I may get a toaster oven, although those are Php 3,000, so I may not need toast or cookies and will just stick with the banana smoothies!!